Crispy Shallot Latkes with Sugar Dusting
Yield: 4 Servings

Not Mallomars, s’mores, or Rice Krispie Treats. My secret childhood sweet was crispy, hot potato latkes sprinkled with sugar, the way my grandmother made them. She knew that a latke’s beauty is fleeting: irresistible hot, they turn charmless and sodden cold. Why rush along the process with cool toppings like sour cream and applesauce? Besides, the unlikely alliance of flavors still delights, even after all these years when former loves like her ginger-snappy stuffed cabbage and red-hot cinnamon candies no longer give me a tickle.

Instead of decreasing the onion--or eliminating it altogether--as do many Jewish cooks who serve their latkes with sugar, my grandmother laced her latkes lavishly with it. The spicy onion contrasts with the sugar, creating layers of flavor that somehow heighten the potato taste. I use shallots here because they are more deeply flavored than onions, and you need fewer to achieve an intense onion taste. Also, adding a lot of onion, which contains so much moisture, might make the latkes soggy or absorb too much oil. With shallots, the potatoes remain crispy.

Don’t go overboard with the sugar--a little goes a long way. Use superfine or regular granulated, not confectioners’, and sprinkle it on when the latkes are very hot so it doesn’t form a powdery cloak, but really melts in. Or serve the latkes unadorned, and offer guests pretty little salt shakers filled with sugar.

You can, of course, have the latkes with the more traditional sour or yogurt cream and a fresh fruit sauce,
but do try the sugar once.

Ingredients:
1 1/2 cups thinly sliced shallots (about 1 pound)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter or fine-quality olive oil
About 1 1/2 pounds russet (baking) or Yukon gold potatoes, peeled
1 large egg, beaten
About 3/4 teaspoon salt
About 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1 tablespoon matzoh meal or unbleached all-purpose flour
Olive oil, for frying
Sugar, preferably superfine, for dusting

Directions:

In a heavy medium saucepan, cook the shallots in the butter or olive oil over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until they become golden and crispy, about 15 minutes. Drain on paper towels and let cool.

Shred the potatoes, using the shredding disk in a food processor. Transfer the potatoes to a colander or strainer and use your hands or a wooden spoon to press out as much moisture as possible. (Don’t bother washing out food processor.)

Remove the shredding disk from the processor and replace with the steel blade. Return about one third of the shredded potatoes to the food processor and roughly puree, using the pulse motion. Transfer the puree to a large bowl, add the remaining potatoes and the egg, salt and pepper to taste, the baking powder, and matzoh meal. Stir in the shallots. Mix until thoroughly combined.

In a 10- to 12-inch heavy skillet (cast-iron is ideal), heat about 1/4 inch of oil over high heat until hot but not smoking. Using a 1/4-cup measure, drop the latke batter into the pan and flatten the latkes with a spatula. Cook no more than 4 or 5 latkes at a time; crowding the pan will make the latkes soggy.

Regulate the heat carefully as the latkes fry until golden and crisp on the bottom, about 4 minutes. To prevent the oil from splattering, use two spatulas (or a spatula and a large spoon) to turn the latkes carefully. Fry until crisp and golden on the other side. (Avoid turning the latkes more than once or they will absorb too much oil. Before turning, lift the latkes slightly with the spatula to make sure the underside is crisp and brown.)

Transfer the cooked latkes to paper towels or untreated brown paper bags to drain and sprinkle them lightly with sugar (I use a scant 1/2 teaspoon for each). Continue frying latkes in the same way until all the batter is used. If necessary, add more oil to the pan, but always allow the oil to get hot before frying a new batch.

If you must, keep the latkes warm arranged in a single layer on a rack set over a baking sheet in a slow oven (200 degree F) until they are all ready to be brought to the table. But they are at their best served as soon as possible.

Pass additional sugar when serving (little salt shakers filled with sugar are attractive and make it less likely that a guest will dump an inedible amount of sugar on a latke), and if desired, accompany the latkes with sour cream or labneh and a fresh fruit sauce.